My apologies for the long silence.
Since I’ve been here more than a year now, time just passes faster and faster and it becomes less interesting to talk about daily life. Even the strange things don’t seem so strange.
But recently, I find my eyes wandering back to the prayer beads I have hanging on my curtain rail–the ones I was given my first month here, when I accidentally joined a cult.
“Japan is a really dangerous place,” they told me. “It’s more dangerous if you’re by yourself, and you are foreign, too.”
I was freaked at the time–anyone would be, being told to kneel on the floor and chant for 20 minutes to the sound of a gong.
But they didn’t contact me after that. They let me go, saying “If you’re in trouble, use that chant.”
After living here, I’m predisposed to trust the intentions of Japanese people–even if I find their methods of religious initiation to be somewhat shady. But thinking back, they seemed to genuinely have my best interests at heart, in the end.
So when Typhoon Hagibis hit, I found myself thinking of what they told me after it was over. I was in the eye of that storm, underprepared and panicked enough to pack a bag.


In the days before that storm, the grocery stores were running ragged with non-perishables like ramen and canned food, and the bread and water was completely wiped out entirely.


And now, we’re being hit by an epidemic.
The Coronavirus, huh? COVID-19?
It seems like it’s all anyone can talk about. I’d heard about it while it was still in China, but since the Diamond Princess cruise ship docked in Yokohama on February 3rd, the panic has been REAL real.
Being a foreigner is strange because I have no idea the extent of a problem until it’s in my face. I didn’t realize how bad the typhoon was supposed to be until the grocery stores were out of water, and now is no different.
Except, as luck would have it, I bought a pack of facemasks right as the epidemic started, wondering why 7/11 was suddenly over-stocking them. I figured maybe they had a special going or something.
Until I went back to that store the next day and all the facemasks were sold out.
And they have been sold out everywhere since, indefinitely, save for the scalpers on the internet taking advantage of the outbreak.

Even the toilet paper has dissapeared, with people suddenly being hypersensitive about paper products (though my students seem to think this is ‘fake news’)


Even the thermometers are sold out, and I’ve visited at least 5 different stores in search of one. Just in case.
In the weeks since all of this has started, I’ve followed the news about the ship and how that’s been handled, and honestly I don’t know much more than anyone living outside of Japan. I’m sure you can Google it and make your own opinions on it. We’re beyond that at this point.
However, I do have some insight into the general opinion on things. Every single day I talk to Japanese people about the various stages of the epidemic. I hear their thoughts and they share news with me I may have missed.
Here are various comments from students, paraphrased by me:
Woman: “I work in a pharmacy, and even the vendors don’t know when they can supply us.”
Salaryman: “I’ve just installed software on my computer in case my company asks me to work from home. But actually, until someone in the company actually comes down with the virus, we’ll continue to work at the office. We just have to wait for one person to catch it.”
Salaryman: “I went to 6 different stores today looking for masks. I couldn’t find any.”
Retiree: “I went to 9 different stores today looking for masks. I finally found some at a Don-Quijote.”
Salaryman: “My company is no longer taking business trips to China.”
Salaryman: “Yesterday, I met with a friend whose company is making him move to China, not too far from Bukan [Wuhan]. We had drinks and a long goodbye. I think he was really worried. I am, too. But he can’t tell his company ‘no’.”
High School girl: “My father went to many different stores to find masks, but the only ones he could find were yellow! Can you believe it! Yellow!” She shakes her head.
Retiree: “My friend and I were going to go to Nagasaki, but we’ve decided to cancel.”
Woman: “My mother was going to come up from Kyushu to visit, but she’s too scared to come now.”
High School girl: “I was going to attend the graduation ceremony this Saturday for the upperclassmen, but the school told us not to come.”
And then, last month it was announced that all elementary, middle, and High Schools will be closed from the beginning of March to the beginning of April. One month of closures.
Most of my High School students were ecstatic. Some had mixed feelings, and some shared news with me.
Here are some quotes from my High Schoolers, paraphrased by me:
Boy: “Katie-sensei, did you hear? All the schools are closing from tomorrow until the new school year! I’m going to take the time to finish building my tank with my 3D printer.”
Girl: “Today was the last day until April. I feel a little happy, and sad. I don’t know what I should do, so I’m just going to stay home and practice dance routines from my favorite K-pop groups.”
Girl: “Disneyland announced today that it’s also closing, with Puroland and the Ghibli Museum. I’m really sad, so maybe my friends and I will bake something together at my house.”
Girl: “My study abroad trip to France was canceled. I worked hard to be the top of my class just to get into that program, so my friends and I were crying this week. I’m really heartbroken.”
It’s been just over a week since all of that, and my own company has also canceled kids lessons for 2 weeks.
My company is even providing and REQUIRING us instructors to wear masks now–something they initially claimed they would not be providing after giving us permission to wear them if wanted.

I think even my company realizes that if it doesn’t cover its bases, it could be in a lot of trouble (not just with a bunch of sick instructors and staff) down the line.

But among the actually terrible disappointments that follow an epidemic like this (trips, concerts, and graduation ceremonies all being canceled), I have to say, there’s been a significant amount of positives too.
Each week, I teach a large number of salarymen who are consistently exhausted, working 12 hour days and 6-day weeks, with unreal commute times and even living away from their families on weekdays.
Except not this past week. This past week, many of my adult students are more relaxed and happy than I’ve ever seen them.
” I can go to work later and the deadlines have all been pushed back. “
A lot of them are talking about the outbreak like it’s a much needed break.
And I’d be remiss not to include the Japanese staff of my own company in this category of workers as well–the lovely branch staff who are notoriously overworked. One of the branch staff even told me,
“I actually think that this must be what it feels like to work a regular job, where I don’t have to stay late every day and feel constantly stressed about sales.”
I think back on something one of my higher level students once told me–“Japan is a great place to live if you aren’t Japanese.” And there’s truth to that, I think.
The people here–they’re taking their free time where they can get it, with not many opportunities in the way of work-life balance.
As for me, there’s actually a substantial amount of risk right now–and it’s actually more insane the more I think about it. I’ll address it in a separate post.
All this being said, I hope everyone out there is being safe. People are starting to act a little crazy paranoid over here, especially on the trains–Japanese politeness be damned, it’s all going to the dogs.
Take care y’all.

Even in Isehara, a place I feel is too industrial to ever be beautiful, life is spilling out of every gap in the concrete.
Coral-colored poppies, particularly–the most persistent wildflower I’ve ever found–grow from every vacant space not regularly trodden by pedestrians. The street corners, the base of the streetlamps, and every alley you might look down is filled with them.
You have to respect how ‘life finds a way’ in Japan. Because if you don’t, you won’t be able to fight it off fast enough.
Still, the best part about spring has been the visit I recieved from my parents, who no doubt have never been so far from home.



Somehow, it was almost more important to me that my parents see and do these kinds of things than just sightsee. And it isn’t always comfortable and you will be out of your element, a bit, but to do these things is to experience Japan, and the style in which a civilization lived long before our own culture was born.
It was all of these small, remarkable things that I had forgotten recently, as life here slowly normalized. Seeing it all with fresh eyes, I’m again reminded that it isn’t just the sightseeing and adventuring that make living in another country remarkable. To experience and appreciate life is sometimes just to live it.
a Yomiuri Giants baseball game in the Tokyo Dome,

visited the big Buddha statue at Kotoku Temple in Kamakura
walked out to Enoshima Island at night,





ate a life-extending black egg on the top of an active volcano at Mt. Hakone (with a bomb view of Mt. Fuji),
explored Yoyogi Park and Harajuku’s famous Takeshita street,


Then to Sensoji Temple,
had Starbucks at Japan’s “Time Square” at Shibuya crossing (and gave some love to the loyal doggie Hachiko while we were at it),




And then, about a week after their arrival, I said farewell to my parents as they boarded a bus to the airport, gone again as fast as they’d arrived.




















































































































My little studio and balcony
The outside (that vending machine makes me so happy and yes I am a trash human thanks)
Looking toward the front door
The open door on the left it is the washroom and the one further down is the toilet. The kitchen (sans fridge) runs along the entryway.